During the ridiculous COVID-19 lockdown I decided I was going to use this time wisely and start checking boxes on my list of things to complete on our FJ Cruiser. I recently did a walk-around video on our rig but some readers were asking for more info on the rear cargo drawer slide out that I built. So I figured I could dive a little deeper into the process. Although we typically don’t do “how-to” videos, this will at least give you an idea of what’s possible with simple tools and some time. Once my wife and I committed to removing the rear seats in favor of a drawer slide out solution, the measurements began. One caveat was incorporating a sleeping platform for one person. For the few times I’m traveling solo and need to make hasty camp. Fortunately, as a general contractor by trade, I have access to all the tools needed.
“Napkin Sketch”
Here are the tools I used:
- Table saw: For ripping plywood
- Mitre saw: For cutting the plywood to length
- Jigsaw: Cut out for recessed drawer handles
- Drill & Drill bits
- 3″ Hole saw bit: For cutting access holes in drawer and box
- Saw horses
- Tape measure
- Framing square
- Pencil or Pen
- Paint supplies
Drawer Slide Out Video:
The Hardware
I spent around $550 in lumber and hardware on this drawer slide out project. And let me tell you, the heavy duty 52″ locking drawer slides were the bulk of it costing $164 per pair. Since the drawer hardware is what the entire project hinges on, I wouldn’t skimp on quality. I opted for a locking set of full extension slides. There are many different drawer handles to choose from but I wanted something recessed to not interfere with the rear door of the vehicle when closed. Plus, I wanted a spring loaded handle so it doesn’t flop around while off-roading. Additionally, I chose to add recessed tie-downs on top of the box to secure camping gear, sourced from Home Depot. D-ring hardware to secure the box to the vehicle can be found here. Finally, I had to take some measurements once the box was mocked up to find the correct length turn buckle. These connect the box to the existing seat mounting bolts.
Main Box
I used two sheets of 1/2″ plywood and two sheets of 3/4″ plywood to build the box, drawers and drawer faces. No fancy joining methods here. Just good old fashion high strength wood glue and screws to fasten the panels together. After measuring the footprint for the box, I cut the bottom piece from 1/2″ ply and test fitted it. Here I measured what height I intended the box to be. Then installed the 3/4″ vertical sides and center divider. Followed by attaching the 1/2″ plywood back panel and test fit again. At this point, I installed the 52″ HD drawer hardware in the box. With the box sitting in the vehicle, I marked where the side fold out panels would mount around the wheel wells. I ordered some 1/2″ piano hinge from Grainger to attach these fold outs as well as the hinged sleeping platform. The box is topped with 1/2″ plywood to keep weight down and covered in a gray carpet from Home Depot. Finally, I installed aluminum “L” chanel around the perimeter to protect the edges and help capture the gray carpet.
Drawers
Trying to keep weight to a minimum, I only used 3/4″ plywood on the drawer sides. While screwing and glueing the lighter 1/2″ plywood to the bottom and rear of the drawers. Wood screws were placed every 4″ on the bottom of the drawer since they’re out of sight. More mechanical strength to withstand heavy cargo in the drawers. Additionally, I added a few cross dividers inside the kitchen drawer to help organize utensils, pots and pans, etc. For a more finished look, I installed aluminum “C” channel to the tops of the drawer sides. This hides the unfinished ends of the plywood while giving the drawers more durability when loading and unloading gear.
Sleeping Platform
The sleeping platform extends the driver side of the box to allow one person to lay down for the night. Moving the driver seat as far forward as possible, I was able to get 72″ overall length. Just enough for me to fit…kinda. It’s not spacious living but it’ll do in a pinch. To support the extended platform, I built three triangular supports that require installation after deploying the platform. As well as two closet rods to support the head area. Once all the pieces were cut, sanded, installed and test fit in the vehicle, it was time to disassemble everything for paint or Raptor Liner. The box and drawers received a few coats of the left-over black paint from my office. And the drawer faces and fold out panels were covered in a more durable Raptor Liner. The same hard textured material I used for the bumpers, fender flares and rock sliders.
Installation
Once all the components were dry, I performed final assembly and installed the drawers and fold-outs. Followed by one last double check of the drawer operation and all clearances. And finally slid the box into the FJ for the last time. Attaching points to the vehicle came from already existing mounting points. In the rear, I removed the cargo loops that were bolted to the floor of the trunk. And used the threaded holes for a longer bolt and fender washer that pass through the floor of the wood box. In the front, I installed the same two cargo loops I just removed from the trunk and installed them on the rear seat bolts on the floor. Then attached the box to the cargo loops with a pair of stainless steel pipe turn buckles.
When utilizing the sleeping platform, I found that moisture can build up inside the vehicle. To prevent this, it’s best to crack the windows regardless of outside temperature. These slip on bug screens for the front doors seem to be an easy solution. Allowing the windows to be rolled down while preventing a mosquito invasion inside the vehicle. Not sure how these work if it’s raining but I can always crack the rear door window in that case.
Final Thoughts:
All in all, with the money spent and about 4-5 days working a few hours each, this was a good value project. Manufactured drawer slide out units are available in limited sizes and costing $1500+. Plus, they’re typically from Australia. So you can add time and shipping costs. We’re now able to store 90% of what we typically carry on an Overland trip inside the drawer slide out. Making trip planning a snap. Just add food in the fridge, clothes and a few odds and ends and away we go. This keeps us more organized and way less likely to forget something. Let me know what you think in the comment section or if you have any further questions.
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Michael Stump says
So pumped on these drawers Eric. Ready to commit to the seat removal myself. Do you have access to the drawings that you’d share? My biggest question is how much of a gap you need from the drawer outside and the drawer to account for the hardware.
I also have the Orangeboxx Fabrications fold down table on the back door, which is awesome. So I’ll need to account for that as well.
susan sorrrlen says
hands down best drawers system on a FJ or any rig for that matter!
Erik Meisner says
Thank you for the compliment
Mel Clark says
Great design. When you are in the sleeping section can you sit up straight? If so, how tall are you?. I’m considering doing something similar. Thanks